World famous is the crater Toba Lake in the Batak highlands; approximately five hours drive from Medan. Toba Lake is the largest lake in South East Asia and also one of the most spectacular, surrounded by tall mountains and with the large island of Samosir in the middle. If we descend from the mountain we see the lake glittering in all its beauty. The Dutch writer Rudy Kousbroek even called Toba Lake, 'the most beautiful place on earth'. Most visitors stay on the peninsula of Tuk Tuk on Samosir, named after the linguist Herman Neubronner van der Tuuk. In general people stay several days on Samosir to discover the island, to visit traditional Batak villages, to swim in the lake and go to the hot springs in Pangururan.
The centerpiece of North Sumatra, Lake Toba's bracing climate and magnificent panoramas clear the mind and soothe the soul. For decades a magnet from regional and foreign visitors alike, Toba has developed into a full-featured highland resort while retaining the rustic charm and relaxed ambiance that define Toba's attraction. Formed by a stupendous prehistoric volcanic explosion, the 100 km long lake is the largest in Southeast Asia and one of the deepest and the highest in the world. The drama of that cataclysmic birth persist in 500 meter cliffs dropping into the blue-green waters, surrounded by steep, pine covered sloped, the climate is fresh and pleasant, with just enough rain to support the lush vegetation.
Toba Lake is a 100kms x 30kms volcanic lake in North Sumatra, Indonesia. Toba Lake has become one of the main tourist attractions for a long time in North Sumatra apart from Bukit Lawang and Nias, visited by both domestic and foreign tourist.
The Origin of Toba Lake
It is estimated that Toba Lake was formed during a volcanic eruption about 73.000-75.000 years ago and which was the most recent super volcano eruption. Bill Rose and Craig Chesner from Michigan Technological University estimated that volcanic materials that were spewed out the mountain totaling 2800km3, with 800km3 ignimbrites rock and 2000km3 volcanic ash that is estimated was blown (wind) to the west for 2 weeks. This incident caused mass death (destruction) and to several species also causes extinction. According to some DNA proof, this eruption also shrinks the humankind population to around thousands back then.
After this eruption, a caldera was formed that was filled by water afterwards and now known as Toba Lake. The pressure from the dormant magma, which has not yet erupted, caused Samosir Island to emerge. The region that now known as Samosir Island originally was a peninsula that attached to the Sumatran mainland. In this peninsula the Netherlands built the water canal 10 m width.
For the first time visitors, going through Medan-Parapat route seeing a lake as big as that made Samosir appear like an amazing grand island. However, the island perspective will certainly faded with the increase in Toba plateau visitor, Nias and the other places in the south, through Medan-Berastagi route. Samosir occupied a central geographical position in the Toba plateau region. With the declaration of the Toba Samosir Regency (the inhabitants 302.000 lives, the area with wide of 3.440 km including the lake) it finally ascend from only a shadow into a Regency. Moreover, the width of Samosir Island exceed Singapore (647 km), in fact Toba Lake almost twice bigger than Singapore. The Samosir image in tourism books as the backpackers location must be changed because this historic place must restore the greatness of its past.
Legend of Toba Lake
Once upon a time, lived a young orphan farmer in the northern part of the Sumatran Island. This area was very dry. The young man lived from farming and fishing. One day he went fishing, he already fishing for half of the day but still not getting any fish yet. So he returned home for the day turns to night, but when he nearly left he saw a big beautiful golden fish, he then caught the fish and brought it home. He intended to cook the fish right away but watched the beauty of this fish he then cancelled his intention. He chose to keep it as pet, and then he placed it in a big pond and feed it. On the next day, like usual, he went to his farm, and on the noon he comeback home, to have lunch. But when he arrived in his house he was very startled for the meal had prepared to be eaten. He then fears that the fish might be stolen, and then hastily he ran to the back of his house.
However, the fish was still in place, for a long time he thinks, “Who cooks those meals”, but because his is very hungry, he ate those meals. But this incident continued to occur again repeatedly, every time he came home for lunch, the meals are prepared on the table. Then one day this young man made a strategy to find out who cooks those meals, the next day he then began to commence his strategy, he then hide around the trees close to his house. He was waiting for a long time, but the smoke in his kitchen still has not been seen, and when he then intended to return home, he began to see the smoke in the kitchen.
"Hey woman, who are you, and where are you came from?” the woman began to drop tears, and then the young man saw his fish was no longer in the pond. He asked the woman, “hey woman, where is the fish in that pond?” the Woman cried intensely, but this young man continued to ask and finally the woman answers, “I was the fish that was caught by you”. The young man then startled, but because he felt that he had hurt the feelings this woman, then he said, “Hey woman, did you want to become my wife??” the Woman then startled, he stay quiet, then the young man said “Why are you silent??” Then the woman said, “I wanted to become your wife. But with one condition.” ”What is the condition?” the young man quickly asked, the woman then said, “In the future if our child was born and grew, never even once you said that he/she was anakni Dekke (child of a fish) ”. The young man then agreed to that condition and swore he will never say it.
Then they were married and granted a child. When the child was 6 years old, this child turn to be very naughty. Then one day the mother told her child to deliver meals to his father field, the child then went to deliver rice to his father. But in the middle of the trip, this child was felt hungry, then the child opened food package for his father, and ate the food. After finished eating, the child then wrapped it back and continued the trip to his father's field. On arrival the child gave the food package to the father, the father was very happy, the father then sat and immediately opened the food package that was sent by his wife to be carried by his child. But he was very startled when he opened the package there is only bones remained. The father then asked his child “Hay my child, why there are only bones left in this package??” And the child answers,” In my trip I felt hungry, so I ate the food.” Listened to that the father was very angry, he then slap his child and said, "Botul maho anakni dekke (Why you child of a fish),". The child is then ran home crying and ask to his mother “Mak, Olo do na in dokkon amangi, botul do au anakni dekke? (Mother, is it true what father said, that I am a child from a fish?) ” Heard his child's words his mother was startled. While dropping tears and saying in her heart, “My husband has violated his swore, and now I must return to my place.” Then the sky was suddenly become dark followed with lightning, thunder, storm, and rain. The child and the mother disappeared, from their footprint emerged a spring that flowed water as swiftly as possible. Until this area was turned into a lake, that was named as “Tuba Lake” the lake without mercy, but because of the bataks was difficult to say “Tuba”, then this lake was mentioned as
TOBA LAKE.
According to the local Citizen, the mother return as a huge fish (the lake guardian), and until today no one is able to measure the depth of this lake. Many tourists that tried to dive into the lake but never return. The lake depth in the book is only estimation not as a fact.
Get around
Local transportation around the lake takes the form of boats (cheaper, school boats with limited schedules and more expensive public boats that operate throughout the day).
Public Boats from Parapat and surrounding areas sail from either Ajibata or Tigaraja to Tuktuk or Tomok at Samosir Island. The fee is 7,000 IDR per trip. There is also bigger ship which transports Cars and Busses sailing between Tigaraja and Tomok.
Hire a motorcycle for a day or two and get out and about (Rp.70,000 per day including full petrol - you can bargain down to Rp.50,000 per day in low season if you hire for several days). Take a map. There are no police checking licenses and there is not much traffic - just watch out for the big trucks, buses and diabolical bridges. A good journey to take on a motorcycle would be to travel North from Tuk Tuk around to the western shore, stopping at the tourist sites along the way such as the many and varied traditional houses and villages. The roads are very bad in the centre of the island (bumpy and washed out) and it takes half a day to cross this way (verse 1-2 hours by coast road which is more scenic anyway). You can expect to ride at least up to 100km in the day.
It may be obvious but just remember there are no taxis around Tuk Tuk. Sure you can walk the small part of the island in an hour or so but if you are heading out for the night plan ahead on how you will get back home. The locals are very friendly people who will go out of their way to help. However, some corners of the island are very quiet at night and you may find yourself on a long long walk.
Most of the cottages and guest houses at Tuk Tuk will rent you a very serviceable bicycle for a nominal fee, this is a very much preferred way to get around, but be very careful for the cars as nobody looks and there does not seem to be any right side of the road, even when its the left side.
Restaurant
The main road around Tuktuk is lined with small restaurants of varying quality. Also on offer is magic mushroom and various "happy herb" pizzas if you want that.
- Jenny's Restaurant, (There is only one or two roads so simply ask for Jenny's.). Jenny and her husband Rinto run the very simple but cozy restaurant with view on the wonderful lake Toba. You will notice that every day the table cloth are being changed, a usually rare to find nicety and convenience. The curry is delicious. A must-try is the fresh lake-fish, steamed or grilled. Even western food like Schnitzel (breaded pork or chicken chop pan fried) is very good. For dessert try the fresh papaya that grows in the back-yard or a golden-brown banana pancake with chocolate sauce and a sprinkle of coconut. Once all the guests in the small place with only about 5 tables are fed and happy, Rinto will take the guitar from the wall and entertain his patrons
- Tabo Cottages, Tuk-tuk, ☎ +62-625-451318 (tabores@indo.net.id). They have free Wi-Fi and the western-styled food served in the restaurant is very good. They have also European quality natural yoghurt.
- Cotney Restaurant, (by the Samosir resort). Specialties include delcious rendanags, curries, and the best smiles on the island by the two lovely sisters who run the restaurant. Internet is also offered for the cheapest price on the island.
- Maruba Restaurant, Tuk-tuk (In between Amberoba Hotel and Rodeo Accommodation). Ita Manurung cooks delicious food, including traditional Batak & Indonesian food. Her boneless fish curry is sensational. She also cooks a variety of Western meals such as schnitzels and stuffed roast chicken and bakes fresh bread and baguettes most days. You can order a Batak feast one day in advance. There are a selection of main dishes to choose from and all are served with Batak style vegetable dishes and rice. Some choices are Ikan Na Neura (Very fresh raw fish marinated with candlenuts, spices & lime juice), Napi Nadir (Batak style curry made with grilled chicken), Saksang (Chopped pork cooked with Batak spices and fresh pig's blood (blood is optional!)
cafe
There is one discotheque on Fri and Sat nights - expect the latest 80s music. Better to drink at your guest house generally.
Saturday night is often the highlight on the local calendar. You can hear a chorus of parties going around the Tuk Tuk area. At Samosir Cottages you will also see a wonderful local Batak performance that is a mixture of traditional dances and fantastic drinking songs (Lesoy!!- Cheers!!). Everyone is so talented it seems as the local people watching the performance also join in or start up their own sing along table after the main show. Harry and his Dad both perform in the band and sell a fantastic souvenir that you will enjoy when back at home.
There are also a number of fine spots around the Tuk Tuk area to catch a sunset beer. Reggae Bar is perched high up looking over the lake while the Hibiscus Bar on main street is hosted by two wonderful local girls and plays cool tunes with a little encouragement. Thats the thing to remember in Tuk Tuk. This area is in a depressed tourist state but is actual a wonderful gem that should be on the world stage. So while some places may look like not much is going on- GO IN - and the momemtum will build into a fun filled night with new friends.
LODGINGThere are numerous hotels and guest houses, mainly in Tuk tuk but with a few scattered in other small towns around the island. During Chinese New Year (end of Jan/early Feb), many Indonesians come for vacation and will pay generously for their rooms (about triple the rate). To accommodate these guests, some guest house owners may ask their existing guests to vacate their rooms, but only giving them very short notice. Therefore, when arriving before Chinese New Year, check with the guest house owner to ensure your stay will not be interrupted.
- Bagus Bay, Bagus Bay, ☎ +62-625-451287, [1]. is a lovely place next to the lake. A dark wood and bamboo bar/restaurant give the place a particularly relaxed feel. The rooms are basic and range between Rp.30,000 and Rp.100,000. Good food and cold beer at a reasonable price. edit
- Barbara`s Guesthouse, Ambarita, ☎ +62-625-7000230 (barbarasguesthouse@laketoba.de), [2]. is a small quite relaxing place a few km from Tuk Tuk with lovely scenery and very good swimming. Rooms are clean and located in several houses. Prices per night from Rp. 35000 upwards. Western- and Indonesian style food is served in the restaurant and on the terasse direct to the lake. Guesthouse manager Gordon gives gladly general tourist information and good tips about Sumatra edit
- Hotel Carolina, Tuk-tuk, ☎ +62-625-451210 (carolina@indosat.co.in). A nice place with 49 rooms set in a lush tropical garden. It has a good restaurant with a verandah overlooking the lake. Staff is very helpful. Prices start with a bargain of Rp.50.000 for small Batak style cottages up the hill with cold water only and go up to Rp.100.000 for the luxury rooms on the lake shore which come with hot water, a bath tub and a fridge. Rates subject to a 10% tax. Good access to the lake for swimming with a pontoon to relax. The Hotel can organise trips, rents out motorbikes, has an internet parlour and even offers free WiFi, though the speed can be very slow. edit
- Christina Guesthouse, Tuk-tuk, ☎ +62-625-451027, [3]. is a small relaxing place with lovely scenery and good swimming. Rooms are clean and located in several houses (e.g. traditional Batak-houses). Prices per night from Rp. 50000 upwards. Internet & Skype are available for reasonable price. Western- and Indonesian style food is served in the restaurant. Guesthouse manager Juan gives gladly general tourist information and good tips about Sumatra. edit
- Liberta Homestay, Sosor Galung, ☎ +62-625-451035. is a good budget choice for 35000Rp/night+. It has quiet private cabins on the lake. Friendly owner Mr Moon will sing, cook, and go out of his way for you. edit
- Mas Cottages. Mas Cottages is closer to the ancient ceremonial stone chairs than downtown Tuk-Tuk. It is a quiet sanctuary from the rest of the world with a variety of accommodation options all directly on the lake including VIP suites and traditional Batak houses. Safety and security are unparalled at Mas Cottages. Prices are a bit higher for this secluded location at 60-70,000 rps. edit
- Romlan, ☎ +62-625-451386 (romlantuktuk@yahoo.com). is a small guesthouse with about 15 rooms and includes two batak cottages (40,000 per night) and traditional rooms in a single and two storey building (about 60,000 per night). The rooms are super clean and very comfortable with attached bathroom and nice furniture. All rooms have direct lake view and the swimming area is good for swimming and relaxing. Also great local and indonesian food including some German meals. Highly recommended. Ask the boat to stop at the private dock. edit
- Samosir Cottages, Tuk-tuk, ☎ +62-625-451170 (info@samosircottages.com), [4]. accommodates many of the travellers who arrive late in Parapat, as there is usually a representative to ship them to the cottages. This is not a bad thing, however - the place is large, with a big variety in the price of rooms (Rp 30,000 and upwards). The waterfront is clean, and the restaurant is large and serves good food.The Batak music performing every Wednesday night and Saturday Night is great edit Ron the Boss and Togi the driver will be very helpful and sincere people. They also own Samorsir Villa Resort 5 minutes drive away which is newly built in 2007.
- Tabo Cottages, Tuk-tuk, ☎ +62-625-451318 (tabores@indo.net.id), [5]. The rooms are very clean and quite modern by Sumateran standards. They have free Wi-Fi and the western-styled food served in the restaurant is very good. Prices start at around Rp.120,000 per night and climb up from there. edit
Stay safe
The local Batak people are very respectful and loving christians. Some of the local males may try turn on the charm too much especially if you are a group females. Be cautious as always but from our travels we saw no material need for specific security concerns day or night.
Get out
There seem to be a few 'Taksi Trans' operators that carry passengers between Parapat and Medan. Takes four hours, costs (July 2009) 65,000 rp per person. There are seven to a van, and if you book early, you can get the passenger seat next to the driver. John from Raja Taksi Trans speaks good English, and operates from a table in a cafe just up (70m) from the Tuk Tuk ferry, in the Harbour area of Parapat. . At the Medan end, the airport desk no is 061 7366333, or 7366555. I don't know how responsive or reliable the Medan end is. I booked the 9.30AM van from Parapat, on the understanding that it would not go until I arrived from Tuk Tuk on the 9.00AM ferry. Trouble is, the 9.00AM ferry is sometimes cancelled, and the 8.00AM ferry is often cancelled. Best to take the 7.00AM ferry from Tuk Tuk, and have breakfast in Parapat.
From the harbour in Parapat, jump in a local mini-van (Rp 2,000) towards the Parapat bus station. From there you can reach nearly all the big cities in Sumatra and even Java. A night trip to Bukkintinggi in an air-con coach costs around Rp 180,000 with the A.L.S. company. Prepare for one of the worst night of your trip.
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